Price per person

COST: $17,750.00

(Shared 🚁) Ktm – Lukla – Namche – Base Camp – Lukla – Kathmandu

Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

Deposit required: $4000 p/p

2024 AMA DABLAM DEPARTURES—

Autumn 2024

4th – 17th November

All-inclusive expedition. Guaranteed departure.

ADDITIONAL GUIDE:

$4000 USD

Only applies if there is only 1 climbing member.

Usefull Information

PERSONAL CONSULTATION

Participating members will embark on an exceptional journey guided by a personal consultation with a dedicated representative from 7 Summits Expeditions, alongside a professional member of our esteemed altitude training center who previously have experience working with express climbing summiteers. Together, we will provide you with invaluable guidance, expertise, and support to ensure your transformational experience reaches its full potential. This personalized consultation will pave the way for a tailored approach that aligns with your unique aspirations and sets the stage for an extraordinary adventure of a lifetime.

PRE-REQUISITE CHECKS AND PREPARATIONS (MUSTS)

In order to ensure the highest level of readiness and safety, acceptance into the program will be granted to participating members following a thorough assessment and consultation process. It is imperative that client members meet our established pre-requisite requirements, and their personal fitness profiles will be meticulously evaluated. These pre-checks, consultations, and preparations form the bedrock of our approach, as they are vital components for successfully undertaking the Ama Dablam expedition within a condensed timeframe.

A significant focus will be placed on comprehensive pre-acclimatization and training methodologies. These pivotal elements will empower participants to adapt to the demanding altitude conditions and optimize their physical preparedness. By prioritizing these crucial aspects, we equip our members with the tools and resilience needed to conquer the formidable challenges that lie ahead on their extraordinary Ama Dablam express climbing journey.

PRE-HYPOXIC ACCLIMATIZATION AND GUIDED TRAINING

Hypoxic chamber acclimatization: Minimum 4 weeks, 5 weeks recommended.

Participating members will engage in a comprehensive hypoxic acclimatization and training regimen lasting for a minimum of 4 weeks (recommended duration max 5 weeks) to facilitate adaptation. The specific acclimatization timeline and training objectives will be tailored to each member’s individual profile, and it is essential that these targets are diligently met to ensure the success of the express climb. Optimal results are achieved when participants commit to a longer duration (5 weeks) of deliberate hypoxic chamber acclimatization, enhancing their ability to adapt effectively before commencing the renowned Ama Dablam base camp journey and embarking on the fast-track ascent to the summit.

ABOUT HYPOXIC TRAINING. . .

Reduction of oxygen during physical activity or exercise in order to strengthen the body’s ability to perform in low-oxygen conditions is the basis of hypoxic training methods. Those who frequently train in oxygen-deprived environments include athletes, military personnel and those who regularly need to perform in situations with lower levels of oxygen, like high altitudes or underwater.

Reducing inhaled oxygen can be achieved via hypoxic chambers or masks, whereas high altitude training utilizes the natural thinness of the air to lower oxygen levels. Simulating low-oxygen conditions is also possible through exercises or unique breathing techniques. These are several ways hypoxic training can be implemented.

Training under hypoxic conditions can prove quite useful, but those results come with a fair share of risks. It’d be wise to consider an individual’s suitability before opting for this kind of training. Any exercising program that intentionally decreases oxygen intake should first be discussed with a medical expert. It’s vital to consult with a healthcare professional before beginning any such routine.

The training program will be rigorous and demanding, spanning a period of 4-5 weeks. Additionally, members are expected to have commenced their own personal training regimen 4-6 months prior to embarking on the acclimatization and training phase.

This comprehensive program can be completed conveniently at home, utilizing hypoxic tents.

Each climber will receive an individualized training schedule and will undergo acclimatization over a minimum of 4-week period, gradually ascending to an altitude of approximately 6,000 meters. This strategic approach minimizes the need for extensive on-mountain acclimatization, which carries inherent risks and can be physically taxing.

As a result, the total duration of the expedition can be significantly reduced to a remarkable 2 weeks. By committing to this rigorous and carefully orchestrated regimen, you are embarking on a transformative journey towards conquering Everest, equipped with the necessary physical and mental resilience to realize your ambitious aspirations.

Please note that hypoxic chamber acclimatization may present certain challenges, such as potentially reduced recovery effectiveness and disruption to sleeping patterns.

It is important to consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new training program, especially one that involves intentional reduction of oxygen. It is also important to carefully monitor your body’s response to hypoxic training and to stop the program if you experience any adverse effects. Hypoxic training can be risky and may not be suitable for everyone.

AMA DABLAM EXPRESS SCHEDULE

The precise itinerary of the Ama Dablam Express expedition is designed to be highly flexible, accommodating individual circumstances. The departure schedules of our members need to be highly flexible. The climbing schedule and strategy will be shaped by factors such as weather patterns, snow conditions, and the progress of line fixing along the route.

Upon reaching base camp, our dedicated team will have already initiated comprehensive preparations, including oxygen deposits, Sherpa support, base camp set-up, route selection, and high camp arrangements. These meticulous preparations lay the foundation for a fast-track, successful ascent to the summit of Ama Dablam, allowing members to focus on the journey ahead.

We prioritize flexibility throughout the expedition, allowing for potential extensions if circumstances necessitate and participants desire. We recognize that a systematic approach is crucial for increasing the chances of success on an Ama Dablam climb. This entails considering factors such as experience, planning, skill, persistence, and training. A well-crafted strategy, combined with a solid system, serves as the key to a triumphant expedition to the peak of Ama Dablam.

EXPRESS EXPEDITION GOALS

At 7 Summits Expeditions, our mission extends beyond mere size or glamour. Our unwavering focus and top priorities revolve around three core principles:

1. Summit Ama Dablam in 14 days or less: We are committed to attaining the pinnacle of success in reaching the summit of Ama dablam, prioritizing not only speed but also the highest safety standards. Our dedicated team strives to create a remarkable and memorable climbing experience, fostering an environment of camaraderie, fulfillment, and personal growth.
2. In pursuit of these objectives, we consistently assemble and recruit the industry’s finest climbing guide leaders. 1 X Certified Guides are confirmed. These exceptional individuals possess unrivaled expertise, experience, and a profound commitment to safety and client satisfaction. With their guidance and leadership, we ensure that every climber receives unparalleled support, mentorship, and the highest standards of professionalism.
3. Embodying Responsible, Ethical, and Sustainable Practices: We take great pride in being a beacon of responsible, ethical, and sustainable expedition operations. With a deep respect for the pristine natural environment of Ama Dablam and the communities that surround it, we diligently adhere to practices that minimize our ecological footprint, respect local cultures, and contribute to the preservation of the mountain’s fragile ecosystem.

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION STRATEGY

Members will fly via helicopter 🚁 directly from Kathmandu to Lukla and then to Namche Bazaar, where they will conduct an acclimatization day.

The next day we fly via 🚁 helicopter to Ama Dablam base camp. Our team will set up 2-3 camps and climb through the safest route, the southwest Ridge. After establishing ourselves at Base Camp, and trekking up the moraine we will move higher to Camp 1 (5,807 meters/19,052 feet). From Camp 1, fixed-line ropes are used for traversing on solid granite and climbing on snow/rocky exposed ridges and vertical granite to Camp 2. Camp 2 (6,200 meters/20,594 feet), also known as the “YELLOW TOWER,” is reached after 60-70 feet of vertical rock climbing. This marks the start of the more difficult and objective dangerous part of the climb.

BASE CAMP (4529M) – CAMP 1 (5800M) AND CAMP 2 (6100M) ROTATION

Ama Dablam Expedition

Renaye, climbing to mushroom ridge, Ama Dablam Expedition. Photo – Masaru Kanda

From Days 4 to 12, we will review weather patterns and conduct acclimatization rotations after discussion with the members and get accustomed to the terrain and properly acclimatize our bodies for the final summit push. During these rotations, we will carry our personal gear to our camps and store it there.

The very exposed nature of the route on Ama Dablam provides exciting climbing, although the slope is not as steep as one might expect. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between ice cliffs and follows a snow arête directly to the 6,810 meter summit. However, the climb is physically demanding and requires long hours of climbing on the final summit day.

CAMP 2.1 OR CAMP 3 (6400M) (SITUATIONAL) AND SUMMIT BID

After evaluating the safety and conditions of the serac, we will decide whether to set up camp 3. If our lead Sherpa determines that the campsite is dangerous, we will make our summit attempt from Camp 2, starting in the early hours. (midnight or 1 aa)

The summit of Ama Dablam is wide and offers breathtaking views on clear weather days. Many of the 8000-meter and 7000-meter peaks are visible from the top of Ama Dablam, including Makalu (8463 meters) and the Baruntse range (7170 meters).

SKILLS REQUIRED. . .

Amadablam is a climbers mountain. You will need exceptional physical fitness and climbing skills. Clients should be able to take care of themselves during climbing days. Eating well, staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb should be your second nature. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within you and your ability to climb. We suggest certain skills especially for Amadablam style expedition.

• Rock climbing indoors and outdoors – (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes , start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.
• The more experience you have on rock climbing, taking on tougher rotes in different types of rock, the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing style and adjusting during the expeditions.
• This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi – pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required
• Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.
• Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling with crampons in all types of terrains.
• Climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of how your body copes in high altitude. You are responsible to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation. Equally important clients have to be aware of their eating pattern and staying hydrated.

( All training will be provided in Amadablam base camp by your expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started into climbing )

ADD’S ON. . .

• Personal Sherpa $3200 p/p
• Extra Oxygen bottle $250 per bottle

ALPINE / FITNESS GRADING

ALPINE GRADING

F (Easy) These routes involve easy glacier travel and may require some rock scrambling. Except for the glacier sections, you can often climb ropeless.

PD (Little Difficult) These routes involve some technical climbing sections and glaciers of higher difficulty. There may also be some short sections of steep terrain. They are good introductory climbs for beginners.

AD (Fairly Difficult) These are physically demanding routes for experienced alpine climbers. They usually have steep and exposed climbing sections or snow/ice slopes over 50°. The descents are long and more complicated, and most of the route requires to be roped.

D (Difficult) These routes involve sustained rock climbing, ice climbing or snow travel. They are considered a significant undertaking and demand a huge commitment.

TD (Very Difficult) Highly technical climbs that involve long distances, remote locations, and hard multi-pitch climbing sections. Besides, there are often other hazards like bad weather (extreme cold, strong winds) or poor protection on the routes.

ED (Extremely difficult) These are extreme climbs (the most difficult in the world, actually!) with continuous difficulties. They take several days to be completed.

FITNESS GRADING

1- Fitness level to be able to enjoy multi-day walks of 6-7 hours per day. Should be able to carry 5-8kg of weight during the activity days.

2 – Good level of cardio-vascular fitness and strength fitness needed. Can train by running or cycling 30+ min 3/4 times a week combined with some gym session of endurance or lower body straightening. Should be able to carry 10kgs during the activity day.

3 – High level of fitness level required both in strengthening and endurance fitness level. Should be able to carry 8 -12 kgs of the load. Training or gym sessions are required to attain this level of fitness. Previous experience of multi-day hill walking is essential.

4 – Exceptional level of all-round fitness will be required to cope with the exceptionally strenuous nature of these expeditions. Exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required. Mental toughness aspect is equally required. Experience is required to be able to take on tours of this physical grading.

5 – Exceptional level of all-round fitness coupled with the ability to cope and resist at the highest altitude. Exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required with high degree of mental toughness. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Previous experience is highly crucial in order to prepare your body to endure a high level of mental and physical toughness from both altitude and terrain.

ROCK CLIMBING ROUTE GRADING

Class 5: Technical and belayed roping with protection is required. Not for novice climbers. Any fall from a Class 5 could be fatal.

Class 5 sub-categories

5.1-5.4: Easy. A steep section that has large handholds and footholds. Suitable for beginners.

5.5-5.8: Intermediate. Small footholds and handholds. Low-angle to vertical terrain. Beginner to intermediate rock climbing skills required.

5.9-5.10: Hard. Technical and/or vertical, and may have overhangs. These hard climbs require specific climbing skills that most weekend climbers can attain.

5.11-5.12: Hard to Difficult. Technical and vertical, and may have overhangs with small holds. Dedicated climbers may reach this level with lots of practice.

5.13-5.15: Very Difficult. Strenuous climbing that’s technical and vertical, and may have overhangs with small holds. These routes are for expert climbers who train regularly and have lots of natural ability.

6.0: Can’t be free climbed. Devoid of hand- and footholds, the route can only be aid-climbed. An added rating of A1 through A5 further designates difficulty level.

ICE CLIMBING GRADING

WI-1: General angle: 50 degrees. Easy, low-angled ice. Walking up ice where crampons are necessary. The easiest ice for which a belay rope would be used. A basic level of technical expertise for safety is required. General angle: 50 degrees.

WI-2: General angle: 60 degrees. Moderate, low-angled with possible bulges. Good protection and anchors.

WI-3: General angle: 70º with possible long bulges of 80º-90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws. Steeper water ice, with longer bulges. Some continuous front-pointing but with good resting places between. Generally good protection, screws can be placed from comfortable stances. The ice is usually of good quality. Requires adeptness at placing protection and making belays.

WI-4: General angle: 80 degrees. Sustained climbing with some vertical sections, separated by good belays. The ice may have some technical features like chandeliers but generally, the quality of ice is good and offers secure protection and belays. Usually demands that screws be placed while on vertical or near-vertical ice. Fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests.

WI-5: General angle: 90 degrees. Long and strenuous, with a rope length of 85º- 90º ice offering few goods rests. Expertise in dealing with the different ice formations is required (e.g., chandeliers, cauliflowers, candled sections). Adequate protection requires effort to place. The climb may sometimes be run-out above protection. Belays may be difficult to create and/or hanging.

WI-6: General angle: 90+ degrees. A serious lead on severe and/or thin ice. Long vertical and/or overhanging sections, extremely sustained difficulties. Few, if any, resting sites. Ice may not be of the best quality, often thin, chandeliered, and hard to protect. Expert technique and a powerful, positive mind frame are prerequisites. Hanging belays of dubious quality may be required.

WI-7: General angle: 90++. Ice that is very thin, long, overhanging, or very technical. Free-hanging columns of dubious adhesion. This grade requires creative techniques to climb and to find protection. Protection may be non-existent. A very physical and emotional pitch. Total commitment is required. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality. Belays require a very high level of expertise and may be marginal at best. This grade applies to only a handful of routes led by an even fewer number of world-class climbers.

EXPEDITION FITNESS

When it comes to an expedition the more fitter you are and stronger the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. The grading system gives you an indication of the level required for each expedition both technically and physically. It is very important that you train and build your level of fitness depending on your choice of the expedition and whilst on expedition if your fitness is deemed to be inadequate our leaders would ask you to remain at camp. Please discuss with our guiding leaders how you feel and whether you can actually make that push during all climbing/expedition, as we take your and staff safety seriously and would not want any unchecked incidents or miss out on your successful summit bid.

ADVENTURE TRAVEL – ACCURACY OF ITINERARY

It is in our best interest to operate our expeditions as printed in the itinerary but due to unseen circumstances, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure, or other operational factors. As a consequence, the order or location of overnight stops and the duration of the day may vary from those outlined. We would ask for your patience in this case as a lot of these can be out of our hands and we will best decide to plan alternatives.

Our assigned leader is responsible for the overall safety of the whole team during the expedition and will encourage the use of safe climbing practices during the expedition. They will ensure that every opportunity is taken to fulfill the objectives described in the trip’s outline itinerary but have the freedom to modify any plans subject to weather, delays, or unforeseen circumstances that are deemed to be out of the control of Namas Adventure. The leader will maintain a good team spirit and attempt to keep morale high for the whole group. Wherever possible the leader will keep the Namas Adventure office informed of team progress and any emergency situations that may arise.

Local guides possess the detailed local knowledge we need to achieve our goals and support our teams. They do not guide in the same way as UIAGM/IFMGA Alpine Guides but work in the more traditional sense as route finders and assistants to our expedition leader. We encourage our groups to work as teams, helping to support and trust each other throughout the duration of the expedition.

Equipment List

Mountain climbing Gears

• Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
• Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
• A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
• Ascender or Jummar
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

Mountaineering boots

• Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
• Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
• Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
• Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

• Expedition suits – North face Himalayan suit or similat
• 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
• 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
• Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
• Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
• Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
• Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

• Wool hat (ski hat)
• Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
• Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
• Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
• Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
• Spoon: Plastic spoon
• Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
• Lip balm with sunblock
• Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
• Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
• Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers
• Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
• Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
• Travel Clothes
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
• Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*