AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION WITH ISLAND PEAK

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

 

6,810M / 22,349 FT. ACCLIMATISATION AT ISLAND PEAK 6189M

AMA DABLAM COST—

21 Days – $7950 P/P

26 Days – $8250 P/P

Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

Deposit required: $1000 p/p

AMA DABLAM OVERVIEW

Ama Dablam 6812M is renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountains in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain for climbing enthusiasts. Whether you plan to tackle it before or after a bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Many alpinists and mountaineers consider a climb of Ama Dablam to be a “must-do” experience.

Pre-requisite requirements (2 or more 6000M + multi-pitch climbing skills): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Cholatse, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M – 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c

From Lukla, our expedition includes a cultural trek through the mesmerizing Gokyo lake/valley to the base camp, followed by a climb of Ama Dablam’s terrain via technical rock, vertical snow, and ice routes, and breathtaking exposed panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit. We will ascend Amadablam via the South West ridge route, setting up 2 or possibly 3 camps (camp 3 depends on the assessment of our rope fixing team). On summit day, the route involves steep snow and ice slopes with extreme exposure leading directly to the summit.

History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ama Dablam’s expedition has been a dream for many mountaineers. Its Southwest ridgeline is the safest route to climb this amazing peak.

EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS

• Ama Dablam 6812M summit, Island Peak 6189M or Lobuche East 6119M (Acclimatisation training peak)
• South-west ridge route, Camp 1 – 2 (possible camp 2.9 or 3) strategy
• 10 days in Ama Dablam Base camp 4570M and higher
• 1:1 Guide/Climber ratio throughout the expedition
• Scenic Khumbu valley trek

AMA DABLAM 26 DAYS ITINERARY

Day 1 & 2  Arrival and Kathmandu (Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )

Day 3 Lukla / Monjo 2800M (5 – 7 hours)

Day 4 & 5 Namche Bazaar/ Acclimatisation 3440M (3 hours acclimatisation trek, up to 3375M)

Day 6 Namche / Phortse 3840M (6 hours)

Day 7 Phortse to Pheriche 4371M (5 to 6 hours)

Day 8 Pheriche acclimatisation day

Day 9 Pheriche to Chukung 4730M (6 – 7 hours)

Day 10 Chukung to Island Peak BC 5100M (5 – 6 hours)

Day 11 IPBC to Summit 6189M to BC to Chukung (10+ hours)

Day 12 Chukung to Pangboche 3985M (5 – 6 hours)

Day 13 – 22 (10 Days of climbing, Ama Dablam Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training and preparation for summit bid. Camp 1, Camp 2, possibly Camp 3 and Summit)

Day 23 Return trek to Namche (6 – 7 hours)

Day 24 Return trek to Lukla (6 – 7 hours)

Day 25 Fly Lukla to Ramechap (30 min) and drive to Kathmandu (4-6 hours, traffic dependent)

Day 26 Departure

ACCOMMODATIONS

Day 1 – 2 and 25 (5 Star hotel. Kathmandu – Hotel Dusit Princess)

AMA DABLAM 21 DAYS ITINERARY—

Day 1 & 2 Arrival and Kathmandu (Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )

Day 3 Lukla / Monjo 2800M (5 – 7 hours)

Day 4 & 5 Namche Bazaar/ Acclimatisation 3440M (3 hours acclimatisation trek, up to 3375M)

Day 6 Namche / Phortse 3840M (6 hours)

Day 7 Phortse to Pangboche 3985M (5 – 6 hours)

Day 8 – 17 (10 Days of climbing, Ama Dablam Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training and preparation for summit bid. Camp 1, Camp 2, possibly Camp 3 and Summit)

Day 18 Return trek to Namche (6 – 7 hours)

Day 19 Return trek to Lukla (6 – 7 hours)

Day 20 Fly Lukla to Ramechap (30 min) and drive to Kathmandu (4-6 hours, traffic dependent)

Day 21 Departure

AMA DABLAM COMBO—

Baruntse 7129M & Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam & Cholatse 6460M Expedition

Manaslu 8163M & Ama Dablam Expedition

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION STRATEGY

Training and acclimatisation at Island Peak 6180M or (Lobuche East 6119M via Gokyo)

We will be climbing Island Peak or Lobuche East as our training and acclimatization peak before we depart for Ama Dablam Base Camp.

 

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

During the Ama Dablam expedition, we will set up 2-3 camps and climb through the safest route, the southwest ridge. After establishing ourselves at Base Camp, trekking up the moraine we will move higher to Camp 1 (5,807 meters/19,052 feet). From Camp 1, fixed-line ropes are used for traversing on solid granite and climbing on snow/rocky exposed ridges and vertical granite to Camp 2. Camp 2 (6,200 meters/20,594 feet), also known as the “YELLOW TOWER,” is reached after 60-70 feet of vertical rock climbing. This marks the start of the more difficult and objectively dangerous part of the climb.

BASE CAMP (4529M) – CAMP 1 (5800M) AND CAMP 2 (6100M) ROTATION

 

Camp 2 Ama Dablam

 

Renaye, climbing to mushroom ridge, Ama Dablam Expedition. Photo – Masaru Kanda

From Days 12 to 19-20, we will review our climbing skills and complete a few acclimatization rotations to get accustomed to the terrain and properly acclimatize our bodies for the final summit push. During these rotations, we will carry our personal gear to our camps and store it there.

The very exposed nature of the route on Ama Dablam provides exciting climbing, although the slope is not as steep as one might expect. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between ice cliffs and follows a snow arête directly to the 6,810 meter summit. However, the climb is physically demanding and requires long hours of climbing on the final summit day.

CAMP 2.1 OR CAMP 3 (6400M) (SITUATIONAL) AND SUMMIT BID

 

Namas Guide on Ama Dablam summit 6812M

After evaluating the safety and conditions of the serac, we will decide whether to set up camp 3. If our lead Sherpa determines that the campsite is dangerous, we will make our summit attempt from Camp 2, starting in the early hours. (midnight or 1 aa)

The summit of Ama Dablam is wide and offers breathtaking views on clear weather days. Many of the 8000-meter and 7000-meter peaks are visible from the top of Ama Dablam, including Makalu (8463 meters) and the Baruntse range (7170 meters).