Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing
Mera and Island peak climbing
Mera and Island Peak climb with Amphu Laptcha Pass is an ultimate mountaineering holiday including the ascent of the two most popular trekking peaks in Nepal and the traverse of Amphu Laptcha Pass. These Two Peaks are the two most popular 6000m peaks to climb in Nepal and both peaks are ideal peaks for people looking for their first Himalayan climb. Both Mera and Island peak are highly sought-after summits and combined these peaks with Amphu Laptcha Pass, this trip is a real high altitude Himalayan climbing holiday.
With both peaks graded as Alpine PD and combined with the traverse of technical Amphu Laptcha Pass, this trip grades strenuous in terms of grade and demands good physical fitness with previous experience of high altitude treks above 5000m. The long duration trek over the remote valleys coupled with climbing two 6000m peaks, make this an exceptional mountaineering expedition.
Fully supported and guided climb to Mera and Island Peak
The trip is fully guided and supported by our climbing guides and crew. We provide 1:3 sherpa guides to client ratio on summit days. Our itinerary for Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptcha pass has been devised carefully keeping every aspect in mind. Our itinerary follows the longer route to Mera peak, giving you plenty of time to acclimatize before reaching Mera peak base camp. We have ensured a well-devised itinerary with proper rest and acclimatization days scheduled to maximise the success ratio.
Our climb gets into gear with rendezvousing at Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal. After checking our gears for the final time in Kathmandu we embark on a fantastic mountain flight to the legendary Lukla airport built with the help of the famous mountaineer we all know as the late Sir Edmund Hillary. From Lukla, we head to Makalu Barun National park for our first climb, Mera Peak. Mera is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. After Mera peak, we will traverse the spectacular and technical Amphu Laptcha pass to reach Chukung for our next climb, Island Peak. Pre-climbing training will be provided at the base camp before the actual climb and our guides will teach you the skills and techniques required to climb each peak.
We will begin our climb with Mera Peak and conclude with the Island Peak traversing Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,780m). The Pass links Mera with Chukung valley which is home to scenic Island Peak.
Mera Peak Climb (6,461m/21,193ft)
The highest trekking peak in Nepal, Mera peak climb progresses through a non-technical route and the majority of the climb involves walking in a glacier at a relatively fair degree of steepness. Mera Peak Climb is for all of the adventure enthusiasts who have the will and determination to make the most out of their adventure in the Himalayas.
Mera is not a technically difficult peak to climb as compared to Island peak but you will need a good level of fitness. The climb involves the use of harnesses, crampons & ice axes.
Find out how difficult is Mera peak?
The climb rewards us with panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga and other peaks and mountains. Come and have three sixty-degree views of glistening mountains from one of the most stunning viewpoints in Nepal.
Island Peak Climb (6,189m/20,305ft)
Climbing Island Peak requires basic mountaineering skills as the route takes us through a scramble of rocks, ridges and glaciers. We need to climb through the steep section to reach the summit that allows views of Lhotse, Amadblam and other surrounding peaks and mountains.
The ascent of Island Peak is not technically very difficult. It is graded as Alpine PD+. Much of the climb is on glacial terrain or 45-degree snow slopes with some steeper sections and with a summit ridge that is narrow in places. Fixed lines used to protect climbers on all steep or exposed sections but climbing the steep section and tapered summit ridge demands better physical strength.
Why climb Mera and Island peak with us?
At Everest Expeditions Nepal we always believe in ‘Safety first and Service paramount’. The success of any climb depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We commit it to maintain the climb safe and successful with the quality of service.
Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will get guidance by highly professional guides who have experience in successfully climbing several national and international peaks. At Everest Expeditions Nepal, we provide a 1:3 guide to client ratio on summit days.
We dedicate it to providing the highest professionalism throughout the climb by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed.
Is this trip for you?
Our Mera and Island peak climb includes an ascent of two peaks higher than 6000m and a traverse of Amphu Laptcha Pass at 5,700m so it is beneficial to have previous experience of high altitude treks. Previous experience of climbing at high altitudes with the use of climbing equipment is highly beneficial but it is not mandatory. You will need a very strong physical stamina level as the trip follows for a longer duration in some of the remote parts of the world.
This trip involves usages of peak climbing equipment (Harness, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Basic mountaineering skills are essential but we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb, so the required skills for the climb can acquire on the trip itself. We also have another ultimate climbing holiday which includes the three most popular trekking peaks in Nepal (Mera Peak, Island Peak and Lobuche Peak) in a single itinerary; have a look at our Three Peaks Climbing
Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while travelling with Everest Expeditions Nepal. Please take care to note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it deems necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will make you to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The trek leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please prepare to be flexible if required.
Itinerary
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Day 01 - Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Everest Expeditions Nepal.
Meal: None
Accommodation: Hotel
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Day 02 - Exploration of Kathmandu and climb preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]
After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your exploration tour in Kathmandu, which includes Bouddhanath stupa and Pashupatinath temple. However, sometimes, depending on your flight arrival, if it’s too late into the night we will do this tour in the afternoon instead of morning to give you some sleep and rest so that you can get rid of that jetlag before you venture out of the Hotel for our interesting tour. In the evening, you will be briefed by your trek and climb leader about your trekking program the next day. In case you have fallen short of any trek and climb equipment that you may need, this time can be used to arrange for it.
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Day 03 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Poiyan [2,800m/9,184ft]
After an early morning b/fast, we take the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on STOL aircraft. Flight time is about 35 minutes to the airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. It is a memorable flight, with outstanding views of the eastern Himalaya (sit on the left side of the plane for the best views). At Lukla, we are immediately overcome by the scale of the massive peaks that surround the village but this is only an indication of what is to come.
After packing our gears, we will leave Lukla and follow the relatively easy trail through the woods of colourful rhododendron and pine to Poiyan for overnight.Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs -
Day 04 - Trek to Pangoma [2,850m/9,348ft]
Crossing the series of ridges, we will go through rhododendron and bamboo forests. On our way, we can see yak joyfully munching the lush green grass. Continuing the trail through rhododendron forest, we will reach Pangoma where we will stay overnight.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/lodge
Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs -
Day 05 - Trek to Ningsow Bhuk [2,850m/8,348ft]
Leaving Pangoma, we will follow the path for a couple of hours before taking gentle climb to Pangoma La Pass. Today we get our first good views of Mera peak up the valley. We cross Ningswo Khola before we reach Ningswo bhuk for our overnight camp
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 7-8 hrs -
Day 06 - Trek to Chetra Khola [2,800m/9,184ft]
Trek to Chetra Khola [2,800m/9,184ft]
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/lodge -
Day 07 - Trek to Khote [3,600m/11,812ft]
After an early morning tea, we will take about 3-hours of a downhill trek through rhododendron forest. We will be taking lunch amid the forest before continuing the trek along Hinku River. It will take a couple of hours to reach Kothe where we will stay overnight.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs -
Day 08 - Trek to Tagnag [4,356m/14,292ft]
We will enter Barun National Park on this day. Leaving our camp in Khote early in the morning, we will proceed and enter to Barun National Park. The trail leads us along the edge of Hinku River about 4-5 hours to lead us to Thagnag which will greet us with awe-inspiring views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangru and Kangteka peaks.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs -
Day 09 - Rest and Acclimatization day [4,356m/14,292ft]
We will take the necessary second break from our trek on this day. Since an activity helps us in proper acclimatization, we will be taking a side trip to Charpate Himal Glacier. It will take 3hrs to reach Charpate Himal Glacier. This glacier holds a great religious significance among native Sherpas. The glacier allows an unobstructed view of Mera North. Later, we will return to our camp in Thangnang for overnight stay.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs -
Day 10 - Trek to Khare [5,045m/16,552ft]
After early morning breakfast, we will leave Thaknag and move through the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to reach Dig Kharka. We will be greeted with a pleasant view of Charpate Himal from Dig Kharka. We will follow the ascending path through moraines to the snout of Hinku Nup. Proceeding further, we will cross Shar Glacier and follow the steep path uphill to Khare where we will camp overnight. The campsite in Khare allows an exquisite view of the North face of Mera Peak.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 4-5 hrs -
Day 11 - Pre Climb training and Acclimatization day [5,045m/16,552ft]
You will receive a pre-climb training from our climbing guide on this day. You will get instructions on peak climbing techniques. You will also be taught how to use the climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly. You will learn how to use ropes while you move up and down. So, even an amateur with no prior experience of peak climb can also participate in Mera Peak Climbing. We will head to the top of Mera Glacier and practice using our climbing gears. Later, in the evening we will return to Khare for overnight stay.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs -
Day 12 - Trek to Mera High Camp [5,800m/19,029ft]
We will need to use climbing gears like Crampons and axe to take the steep to ascend to High Camp of Mera Peak. From Mera La, we will ascend the glaciated path. At around 5800m elevation, we will find a rocky section among glacier to set up our high camp. Existing at the edge of the mountain, the area offers a striking view of Kanchenjunga that rises to the east above the ridge of Chamlang. We will also get exquisite views of Makalu, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, the southern section of Lhotse and Lhotse Shar Mountains. Stay overnight in High Camp.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Camping
Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs -
Day 13 - Summit Mera Peak [6,476m/21,247ft] and trek to khongma Ding [4,840m/15,180ft]
We will wake up much early on this day. After tea, we will take a slow climb towards the summit. The temperature remains on an average 10 degree Celsius below Zero on this region. We will climb the glacier and proceed to snow hump-back ridge. We will follow the non-technical and classic route through the south-east ridge. Climbing further through the snout of the glacier, we will climb over the south summit to the summit ridge. Finally, the moment comes for which all of us were eagerly waiting. We will get the 360-degree views of many eight thousand meter peaks including views of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and other peaks and mountains. We will spend some time on summit witnessing the views before we descend to the foothill of Mera and reach Mera La from where we will continue our walk till we reach Khongma Ding
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Camping
Trekking Hours: 9-10 hrs -
Day 14 - Trek to Seto Pokhari [5,000m/16,405ft]
After a long and tiring climb of Mera, we will pursue the easy trail to Seto Pokhari. Moving through the Hongu Valley, we will follow the scenic path with views of Chamlang (7319 m) and Baruntse (7129 m) from most of the point. The trail is mostly flat with occasional ups and downs. Finally, we will arrive at Seto Pokhari, the white Lake where we will stay overnight.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Camping
Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs -
Day 15 - Trek to Amphu Lapcha High camp [5,400m/17,717ft]
There are no inhabitants in this area as this is a very high and remote valley. We will follow the least crowded path to Chamlang Base Camp. Walking along the west face of Chamlang, we will reach the Honku River. Moving further through the Hongu glacier, we will reach Panch Pokhari, the Holy Five Lakes of Nepal. After spending some time to soak in the beauty of these five lakes, we will proceed to Amphu Lapcha High Camp where we will stay overnight.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Camping -
Day 16 - Trek to Chukung [4,730m/15,518ft] via Amphu Lapcha Pass [5,850m/19,190ft]
Crossing Amphu Lapcha Pass requires technical skills. We will start early in the morning today when the weather is clear and calm. We need to cross the steep section of ice and rock. After climbing the difficult Amphu Lapcha Pass, we will lower down to the other end of the Pass at Imja Valley. We will continue walking to Chukung where we will stay overnight comfortable at the lodge.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 8-10 hrs -
Day 17 - Rest and contingency day at Chukung
This contingency day has been kept to make sure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption even if there occur complications while climbing the peak.
If all goes well as planned then today will be a completely free resting and doing laundry.Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge -
Day 18 - Trek to Island Peak Base Camp [5,200m/17,060ft]
We will head south towards the main valley in the east. Crossing streams at few points, the trail gets rough with boulders and glaciated rivers. We will cross Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines and arrive at the valley which serves as the Base Camp for Island peak. We will rejoice in the striking view of the southwestern face of Island peak. Stay overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Camping
Trekking Hours: 2-3 hrs -
Day 19 - Summit Island Peak [6,189m/20,305ft] and trek to Chukhung (4,730m/15,518ft)
Since the heavy wind blows during the afternoon at the summit, our target will be to reach the summit before noon. We will take moderate climb for the first part of the climb before reaching the steep hillside. The terrain frequently changes to boulder. We will follow the tapered path through a steep rock channel to emerge to the gully. Walking through a ridgeline, we conquer the challenges proposed by seracs and crevasses. We will proceed through the snout of the summit glacier with the help of ropes and move through 40- degree snow slopes to reach the summit. The challenge of the climb is rewarded with the gratifying views of Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu, Baruntse and Amadablam Mountains. We will capture the memories in the camera and then prepare ourselves for long descend to the Base Camp and then we will continue moving to Chukhung.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 10-12 hrs -
Day 20 - Extra for any delays
Extra for any delays
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge -
Day 21 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]
Leaving the Base Camp, we will follow the easy trail to the lower altitudes. We will retrace the route through the wide valley of Khumbu River and walk past pretty tiny Sherpa settlements of Orsho and Shomare to Pangboche. Pangboche is popular for its oldest monastery in Khumbu region. We can rejoice the views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtaiga and Kongde ridges and Imja Tse River from Tengboche village.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs -
Day 22 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]
Leaving Pangboche early in the morning, we will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After a brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through the forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like mountain goats, Thars and local birds. We will pass through the chorten to the army camp at Namche Bazaar.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs -
Day 23 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]
Our last day of trek following the Dudh Kosi River down to Lukla. It’s only a gradual walk along the Dudh Kosi river after our steep descent from Namche. We’ll have lunch on our way and we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. Rest of the day is free and you can relax under the warm sun & reflect on the emotional experiences we had while hiking through these massive mountains that have probably helped us re-discover ourselves in ways least expected. This is our final day on these fantastic mountains. Later we celebrate our successful completion of trek & climb with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends. It’s a pleasure to end this wonderful trip on a happy note. We then slumber into blissful sleep.
Meal: (B,L,D)
Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs -
Day 24 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Take an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. We will be transferred to the hotel in a private vehicle in Kathmandu. Take leisure and soothe your aching limbs from long and tiring peak climb.
Meal: (B)
Accommodation: Hotel -
Day 25 - In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
Enjoy a leisure day. You are on your own. Participating in a day tour in Kathmandu is a pleasant plan. You can also go for shopping in Thamel, a tourist hub where you can buy souvenir items like handicrafts and arts to your family. At eventide, we will relish a farewell dinner to celebrate our successful climb. While enjoying our supper, we will also be entertained to a scintillating cultural dance performed by the local belles
Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.
Meal: (B)
Accommodation: Hotel -
Day 26 - International departure
Finally, the undeniable day of departure arrives. Thank you for joining us on this climb and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last-minute preparation. Our representative will take you to Tribhuwan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.
Meal: (B)
Accommodation: None
Trekking Hours:
Include / Exclude
Cost Includes:
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Fully guided climb with experienced climbing guides on 1:3 ratio (Guide to client ratio)
Meals and Accommodation at Tea Houses/Lodges during trekking period
Meals and High-quality mountain tents during climbing period
Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
All peaks permits with garbage deposits.
National Park Fees
KTM-LUKLA-KTM Airfare
Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
Personal/Group climbing gears
Porter age of equipment required during trekking and climbing
Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of trek)
Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
Staff summit bonus, insurances and allowances
Cost Excludes:
International airfare
Meals in Kathmandu
Custom for bringing any expedition goods
Nepal entry visa fees
Personal clothing
Insurance/Emergency evacuation and VISA
Gratuities for staff
Essential Information
Price per person
Usefull Information
Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private group basis.
If you are looking for a group to join this trip please click the Fixed Departures tab for more information on departure dates, availability and price. All our fixed departures are guaranteed to run. Or, if you would like to do this trip alone, or with your friends, families & colleagues in a private group style please fill out the contact form in Private Group tab and send us your message. We will organize a private trip for you at your preferred dates catering any request you may have.
Equipment List
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Best Seasons March to May, September to November -
Group Size 2-20 -
Duration 26 DAYS BOOKING OPEN FOR 2024 -
Maximum Altitude 6584M -
Trek Difficulty Challenging
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